Skincare Preservatives: Separating Fact from Fiction

• Safety: Approved for use up to 5% by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Non-toxic, non-irritating, and suitable for sensitive skin.
• Efficacy: Acts as a humectant and antimicrobial agent, effective against bacteria and yeast but less so against mold. Often paired with other preservatives.
• Sustainability: Derived from petrochemicals but used in low concentrations. Emerging bio-based alternatives are improving its sustainability profile.

• Safety: Approved globally at concentrations up to 1%. Non-irritating and non-sensitizing, often used as a preservative booster.
• Efficacy: Enhances other preservatives and has mild antimicrobial activity. Best used in combination with other agents.
• Sustainability: Typically derived from petrochemicals, but bio-based versions are being developed.

• Safety: Considered safe up to 1% by the CIR and EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). Can cause mild irritation in some individuals.
• Efficacy: Broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against bacteria, yeast, and mold. A reliable standalone preservative.
• Sustainability: Derived synthetically, but sustainable manufacturing processes (e.g., biofermentation) are emerging. Biodegradable in the environment.

• Safety: Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) by the FDA. Effective in low-pH formulations (≤5.5) but may cause irritation in rare cases.
• Efficacy: Effective against yeast and mold but less potent against bacteria. Best used in combination with other preservatives.
• Sustainability: Derived from benzoic acid (found naturally in plants like cranberries). Highly biodegradable and eco-friendly.

• Safety: Safe up to 0.6% in cosmetics. Non-toxic and non-irritating but may cause mild sensitivity in some individuals.
• Efficacy: Effective against mold and yeast but weaker against bacteria. Often paired with other preservatives.
• Sustainability: Synthesized from sorbic acid, which is biodegradable and eco-friendly.

• Safety: Safe up to 1% in cosmetics but may cause sensitivity in individuals with fragile skin.
• Efficacy: Broad-spectrum preservative with natural antimicrobial properties. Effective against bacteria but less so against mold.
• Sustainability: Occurs naturally in plants but is also synthesized. Biodegradable.

• Safety: Non-irritating and approved globally. Often used in sensitive skin formulations.
• Efficacy: Functions as a humectant with antimicrobial properties. Best paired with other preservatives.
• Sustainability: Derived from petrochemicals but is biodegradable. Bio-based alternatives are being explored.

• Safety: Deemed safe at concentrations ≤0.8% (combined) by regulatory bodies. Rarely cause irritation but face scrutiny for potential endocrine disruption (unproven in humans at cosmetic concentrations).
• Efficacy: Highly effective, broad-spectrum preservatives with long-term stability.
• Sustainability: Synthesized from petrochemicals but rapidly biodegradable.

1. Avoid Vitamin C with Sodium Benzoate or Potassium Sorbate: These combinations can form benzene under certain conditions (e.g., heat and light exposure). If Vitamin C is essential, opt for alternative preservatives like phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
2. Monitor pH: Many preservatives, such as sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate, are pH-dependent. They work best in acidic formulations (pH 3–5).
3. Synergistic Blends: Combining preservatives with complementary efficacy (e.g., phenoxyethanol + ethylhexylglycerin) can enhance protection.
4. Avoid High Heat: Some preservatives degrade at high temperatures, so incorporate them during the cooling phase of production.

Why we choose Phenoxyethanol in our microbiome friendly formulations:

Yes indeed the antagonism of a microbiome friendly preservative! But there in lies the truth agaian - that the dose makes the toxin. Phenoxyethanol is a common preservative in skincare, typically used at concentrations below 1%. At these low levels, many studies suggest that it is doesn't cause disruption to the skin’s resident microbial community. However, while its antimicrobial action is well-documented and effective in a concentrated jar, the research specifically addressing its effects on the skin microbiome when distributed—and especially whether it might support beneficial microbes or selectively suppress harmful biofilms—despite being well underway, is not yet definitive as for many questions in science. 

Key Points:

• Low-Level Use: In formulations, phenoxyethanol is used at low concentrations (often ≤1%), which is generally considered safe and minimally disruptive to the skin’s natural flora.
• Antimicrobial Activity: Its primary function is to inhibit the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. This broad-spectrum activity means it may not selectively target “bad” microbes without also affecting beneficial ones.
• Impact on Biofilms: While some in vitro studies suggest that phenoxyethanol can interfere with microbial growth and possibly biofilm formation at higher concentrations, there isn’t robust evidence to confirm that, at cosmetic-use levels, it actively suppresses harmful biofilms without affecting the beneficial microbiota.
• Need for Further Research: More targeted studies are needed to clarify whether phenoxyethanol can be classified as “microbiome-friendly” or if its antimicrobial effects might be leveraged to improve skin health by modulating biofilm formation.

We continue to investigate microbiome friendly alternatives for a diversity of formulations, including the packaging, the processing and application techniques.

1. Check Qualifications: Look for information from reputable sources, such as dermatologists, cosmetic chemists, or regulatory bodies like the FDA or SCCS.
2. Seek Peer-Reviewed Research: Scientific studies provide the most reliable evidence.
3. Be Skeptical of Absolutes: Claims like “all natural is better” or “all synthetic is bad” are oversimplifications. The truth lies in the details.